One wall has already been replaced with studs and fire resistant drywall as it was falling down. I've got a crappy little garage built into my basement with them. I had a question about gypsum blocks and hoped someone here might have some knowledge. Thanks in advance for the comments/advice. Anyway, the question is to leave a small step for the first row of stone or set the block right up to my saw cut line which is nearly flush to the water line tile. I think the brown coat will be needed since the wall is curved leaving a faceted a larger mortar gaps. the wall will be faced with ledger stone on top of a brown coat. Fill with mortar/epoxy that can expand/contract.if such a thing?Ģ.

the deck has joints about every 4' I had some concern with these 'pads' moving which would effect the wall? is this an issue? if so would leaving out mortar at these joints of block be good. Rebar will be set through the deck and into the pool bond beam every 2 ft.ġ. First, I had a structural engineer(friend of the family) confirm the wall could be made on top of my concrete deck using 8x8x8 block. The two question(s) I have are related to the pool wall. The wall will be two row block to give me a 24-26' height for a rain sheer descent. overlay and overlay wins - the concrete is in great shape. The deck will be overlay travertine, I outweighed the cost for tearing up the kool deck concrete vs. I plan to most of the travertine deck, BBQ island and pool wall. The pool is now going to be surrounded by travertine pavers and the far edge being raised for a stone faced wall and water feature. Not unusual as this has happened on other projects.

The plan was to have my 20 yr old pool resurfaced but a back yard remodel was the result. Hi all, this is my first post been lurking around for a while as I ramp up on my pool remodel.

Curved cinder blocks